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Typically alkaline batteries will not leak under normal storage and/or usage conditions. The potential for leakage is significantly increased, however, if the batteries are subjected to charging, mixing of battery chemistries, mixing of fresh and used batteries, physical damage, extended exposure to high temperature or deep discharge.

Alkaline battery leakage is extremely caustic and contact with bare skin should be avoided. In the event that battery leakage comes in contact with your skin, flush the area for 15 minutes with copious amounts of water and seek medical attention. 

A battery tester (loaded voltmeter) is a simple and effective way to determine if a battery is "good" or "bad." Most testers place an appropriate load on the batteries and then read the voltage. A voltmeter without a load can give very misleading information and is not recommended for this purpose. Note that testers are typically not capable of providing reliable run time estimates.

When stored at room temperature (i.e. 70°F/ 21°C), cylindrical alkaline batteries have a shelf life of approx. 5 years and cylindrical carbon last 2 years. Lithium Cylindrical types can be stored from 10 to 15 years. Prolonged storage at elevated temperatures will shorten storage life.

Mixing of battery types (different chemistries, brands and/or fresh vs. used) in a device is not recommended and can significantly increase the potential for leakage and reduced device run time. The primary concern is an imbalance in capacities or available energy between the installed batteries. As the weakest battery becomes exhausted, it will be force discharged by the stronger batteries to very low or negative voltage levels which drastically increases the potential for leakage.

Only batteries that are labeled as rechargeable are capable of being safely recharged. Attempting to recharge non-rechargeable batteries greatly increases the potential for leakage and rupture. Charging must be conducted in chargers specifically approved for each product type which may vary depending on brand and model of both battery and charger.

Batteries in portable consumer devices (laptops and notebooks, camcorders, cellular phones, etc.) are principally made using Nickel Cadmium (NiCd), Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) or Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) technologies. Each type of rechargeable battery technology has its own unique characteristics.

NiCd batteries, and to a lesser extent NiMH batteries, suffer from what's called the "memory effect."  If a NiCd battery is partially discharged on a continuous basis before re-charging, the battery "forgets" that it has the capacity to further discharge all the way down. To illustrate: If you fully charge your battery every time, and then use only 50% of its capacity before the next recharge, eventually the battery will lose its extra 50% capacity which has remained unused. Your battery will remain functional, but only at 50% of its original capacity. The way to avoid "memory effect" is to fully cycle (fully charge and then fully discharge) your battery at least once every two to three weeks. Batteries can be discharged by unplugging the device's AC adaptor and letting the device run on the battery until it ceases to function. This will insure your battery remains healthy.

Batteries that have been manufactured using the "sintered" method of active-material drying will not be affected by the conditions that cause "memory effect."  

NiCd & NiMH versus Li-ion are fundamentally different from one another and cannot be substituted unless the device has been pre-configured from the factory to accept more than one type of rechargeable chemistry.  NiCd and NiMH are very similar, except in capacity and charge rate.  But those two differences preclude using the same charger on both.  It is best to use the chemistry your device was designed for. Refer to your owner's manual to find out which rechargeable battery types your particular device supports, or simply use our BatteryFinder to find your device. It will automatically list all of the battery types supported by your machine.

New batteries are hard for your device to charge; they have never been fully charged and are therefore "unformed." Sometimes your device's charger will stop charging a new battery before it is fully charged. If this happens, simply remove the battery from your device and then re-insert it. The charge cycle should begin again. This may happen several times during your first battery charge. Don't worry; it's perfectly normal.

New batteries are shipped in a discharged condition and must be charged before use. We generally recommend an overnight charge (approximately twelve hours). Refer to your user's manual for charging instructions. Rechargeable batteries should be cycled - fully charged and then fully discharged - 2 to 4 times initially to allow them to reach their full capacity. (Note: it is perfectly normal for a battery to become warm to the touch during charging and discharging).

NiCd, NiMH and Li-ion batteries should be recycled. Be environmentally conscious - do NOT throw these batteries in the trash. 

If you don't know where your local recycling facility is, call the Portable Rechargeable Battery Association at 1-800-822-8837. They will provide you with the address of the recycling center nearest to you.

In the United States and many other countries cylindrical alkaline batteries are classified as common household waste. Great strides have been made in making alkaline batteries more environmentally friendly which have been manufactured free of added mercury since the mid 1990's. Classification details may vary and should be confirmed in each specific geographical location. 

No.  Fast chargers will simultaneously rapidly charge and condition the battery thus extending the life of the battery. Overcharging and overheating a battery will adversely affect the life and performance of a battery.

For most electronic devices it is better to use NiMH batteries than NiCd batteries. NiCd batteries use cadmium, a toxic heavy metal that can damage the environment if not disposed of properly. (They should be recycled not discarded). Compared to NiCd, NiMH batteries have a higher capacity in a more compact battery and experience less memory effect.

Some devices are marked for specific battery chemistries.  Check inside the battery compartment of your device or your user manual to make sure they are compatible. Note the discharge curve of alkaline batteries continuously reduces voltage level. In fact, over the course of their discharge, alkaline batteries average about 1.2 volts. The main difference is that an alkaline battery starts at 1.5 volts and gradually drops to less than 1.0 volts. NiMH batteries stay at about 1.2 volts for almost 80% of their discharge cycle. Once alkaline batteries discharge to 50% capacity, it will be delivering a lower voltage than a NiMH battery.

No, storage in a refrigerator or freezer is not required or recommended for batteries produced today. Cold temperature storage can in fact harm batteries if condensation results in corroded contacts or label or seal damage due to extreme temperature storage. To maximize performance and shelf life, store batteries at normal room temperatures (68°F to 78°F or 20°C to 25°C) with moderated humidity levels (35 to 65% RH).



Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates than that of a standard battery. 

A gel battery design is typically a modification of the standard lead acid automotive or marine battery. A gelling agent is added to the electrolyte to reduce movement inside the battery case. Many gel batteries also use one way valves in place of open vents, this helps the normal internal gasses to recombine back into water in the battery, reducing gassing. "Gel Cell" batteries are non-spillable even if they are broken. Gel cells must be charged at a lower rate (max C/5) and voltage than flooded or AGM to prevent excess gas from damaging the cells. Fast charging them on a conventional automotive charger may permanently damage a gel battery.   NEVER charge either AGM or GEL sealed lead-acid batteries with an automotive charger.  The charger will damage the batteries.

Milliamp Hour is a term used to describe the capacity of a battery or the rate of discharge it is experiencing.  The capacity of various chemistries is expressed in milliamp hours for smaller batteries and amp/hours for larger batteries; discharged over a specific period of time expressed in hours.  The combination of the discharge rate (milliamp hours or amp hours), and the time to complete discharge, determine the capacity of the battery. 1000mAh = 1 Amp Hour.

The capacity of a battery is typically expressed in milliamp-hours (mAH) or amp hours. For primary batteries, samples are discharged at a specific current drain (i.e. 25mAH) and time recorded to a cutoff voltage (i.e. 0.8 volts). The time (hours) it takes the battery to reach the cutoff voltage is then multiplied by the current drain to establish the mAH capacity of the battery. Rechargeable batteries (NiMH) are rated based on a C/10 charge followed by a C/5 discharge.  Sealed Lead-Acid batteries are rated on a C/10 charge and C/20 discharge rate. 

Yes, it will work. The mAH is a measurement to compare run times. For example, a battery with a 2500mAH rating would last twice as long as a battery with a 1250mAH rating.

In a partially discharged state, the electrolyte in a lead acid battery may freeze. At a 40% state of charge, electrolyte will freeze if the temperature reaches approximately -16.0°F. The freezing temperature of the electrolyte in a fully charged battery is -92.0°F. 

All batteries, regardless of their chemistry, self-discharge. The rate of self-discharge depends both on the type of battery and the storage temperature the batteries are exposed to. However, for a good estimate, deep cycle AGM or GEL batteries self-discharge approximately 3% per month, stored at 25°C (77°F).

The main difference between the two is the fact that NiMH batteries (the newer of the two technologies) offer higher energy densities than NiCd batteries. In other words, pound for pound, NiMH delivers approximately twice the capacity of its NiCd counterpart. What this translates into is increased run-time from the battery with no additional bulk to weigh down your portable device. NiMH also offers another major advantage over NiCd.  NiCd batteries contain cadmium, a toxic heavy metal that must be recycled.  NiMH does not contain any toxic components, and can be disposed of in the trash.  However, the "green" movement encourages the recycling of all battery chemistries. 

Li-Ion is a rechargeable chemistry that has quickly become the emerging standard for portable power in consumer devices. Li-Ion batteries that contain the same energy as a comparable NiMH battery will weigh approximately 35% less. This is crucial in applications such as camcorders or notebook computers where the battery makes up a significant portion of the device's weight.  This translates in to much longer run-times for the devices for the same weight.

The term Super Heavy Duty (SHD) refers to the zinc chloride carbon zinc (CZn) chemical system which has largely replaced the LeClanché CZn "General Purpose" chemical system. Alkaline batteries are very similar to carbon-zinc, but are alkaline manganese dioxide chemistry, and contain about twice the power of a comparably sized carbon-zinc.  Carbon-zinc batteries are best suited for low drain applications such as clocks and simple smoke alarms or short intermittency devices such as remote controls.  Alkaline batteries are more suited to higher drain uses, like in toys, CD players, etc. 

Alkaline and carbon-zinc batteries contain a water based electrolyte. As the battery temperature approaches the freezing point of water (32°F or 0°C) chemical reactions within the battery slow down due to reduced ion mobility. Ion mobility defines the ability of electrons to freely move, critical to the generation of electricity through a chemical reaction. The net result is a reduction in overall performance or run time which can be recovered as temperatures approach typical room conditions (68°F to 78°F or 20°C to 25°C). 

A battery is typically much more efficient at lower current drains. Therefore, available capacity will drop significantly as drain rates and/or the functional voltage endpoint increases.

Most of the time, this problem happens to sealed lead-acid batteries of either AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) or GEL (gelled electrolyte) construction. These battery constructions are known as "recombinant" batteries, referring to the absorption of gasses generated by the chemical process of the battery.  In order to absorb these gasses, the positive and negative plates must be as close together as possible and are usually only held apart by the thickness of the separator.  A consequence of the necessity of gas absorption, the pack of plates (the element) is inserted very tightly into the cell cavity, resulting in a lack of space for any other components. In the situation of a swollen battery, the cell plate components expanded, and the force exerted on the case caused it to swell and most likely split at numerous points.

The expansion of the cell element is as a result of internal heat, and can be as a result of either overcharging of the battery or from a drastic shorting of the battery terminals.  Either one of these situations will generate internal heat in the battery. Additionally, natural lead has a high expansion rate when exposed to heat.  Since the cells of a battery of AGM or GEL construction are deliberately manufactured with no extra room, the result is the individual cell casings will split from expansion pressure, and deform from high heat, destroying the battery due to the massive damage to internal parts.

This usually does not happen to the battery alone; usually the battery was either shorted or overcharged. The overcharging of the battery can be the result of a charger that is delivering too much current to the battery, or a charger of higher voltage than the battery was accidentally used-for example a 12V charger on a 6V battery.    Regardless of the cause, the result is almost always the same; swelling and the destruction of the battery.

To avoid this particular accident, the end-user must consider the following points:

1)      Is this charger meant to be used on this type battery?
2)      Is this charger the right voltage for the battery I want to charge?
3)      Is the maximum current of this charger within the charging range of this battery?
4)      Do I have the right polarity connection between battery and charger? 
5)      Are the battery terminals shielded from possible shorting?

These questions must be considered to not only avoid the destruction of a battery, but also for personal safety because in worst case scenarios the heat could cause the battery to catch fire.  Batteries are active devices and are reactive, not proactive, so they respond to the outside influences.


kinetik® hc series batteries

Lack Of Power = Low Voltage 
Low Voltage = Increased Current 
Increased Current = Increased Heat 
Increased Heat = Fried Amplifiers & Electronics

By providing your amplifiers and electronics with the proper amount of power they will run cooler, they will run more efficient, they will perform better and they will last longer!

The first thing most that comes to mind when lights are dimming or amplifiers are going into protection is to replace or add another battery. If the alternator is not charging properly, you must fix the problem before adding power. Adding more than a few hundred watts to a vehicle will tax the factory electrical system and will not provide the peak performance, power output or lifetime of the added electrical equipment, amps etc. An upgraded alternator must be installed to insure maximum performance above this wattage.

Always check and LOAD TEST the alternator and battery currently in the vehicle. Never install a Kinetik® Power Cell or any other additional battery in a vehicle that has not had a thorough electrical system check. Simply checking the voltage of a battery or alternator can not determine its condition. A load must be applied to find the maximum current output at any voltage. If the alternator and battery already in the vehicle are not in good working order, adding additional power storage devices will offer nothing more than a short term solution.

Kinetik® makes choosing a Kinetik® Power Cell simple. We made our model numbers equal to the wattage needed for your vehicle. For peak performance and the maximum lifespan of all electrical equipment in your car, simply add up the total wattage needed including all amplifiers, lights, winches, video and all other electronics and make sure the model numbers add up the same amount. Allow from 800 to 1200 watts to run the vehicle depending on the electrical requirements if you are replacing the under hood battery also. For example; a car with a stock 90 amp alternator can use up to 1200 watts to run the factory equipment already in the vehicle (90 amps x 13.6 volts = 1224 watts). Remember, there is a reason the factory put that size alternator in the vehicle in the first place and it was not so you could have extra power to run your aftermarket equipment! You must add power if you increase the demand. If you add a 1000 watt amp and a 200 watt 4 channel amplifier and allow 1200 watts to run the car then make sure the Kinetik® model numbers add up to 2400. 1200+1000+200=2400. Assuming you are replacing the starting battery with a Kinetik® Power Cell, install the size that best fits the space (for example an 1800) and add the rest of the 2400 needed to the rear near the amplifier (a 600). In this car a KHC1800 BLU and a KHC600 BLU add up to 2400 watts total and the car should have plenty of power assuming everything else is working properly.

• Installation Location 

Kinetik® Power Cells can be mounted anywhere in a vehicle since they are sealed, non-hazardous and do not leak. We recommend installing the Power Cell close to where it is needed for best performance. When you install amplifiers or other electrical equipment in the rear of a vehicle you should try to provide power as close as possible to the load for maximum current and voltage. The best case scenario is to have the Kinetik® model numbers match the demand near the load. If you add 1200 watts in the rear of a car then try to add 1200 in the rear if possible.

• Wiring 

In an amplifier install, wire the positive and negative power wires from the amplifier directly to the Power Cell with as few breaks or connections in the wire as possible. Connect the front Kinetik® Power Cell or battery to the rear Power Cell using proper gauge wire (see wire gauge chart in the manual). It is best to run both positive and negative wires from the front to the rear Power Cell. When a negative wire is not run all the way then ground the Power Cell to the frame or body of the car. We strongly advise soldering all ring terminals any time they are used. Keep in mind the most important connections you can make in an install are between the Power Cells and the amplifiers or load. Use the wire gauge chart in the manual to determine the recommended cable length.

• Mixing Different Battery Technologies 

Kinetik® Power Cells are compatible with most standard 12 volt charging systems and battery technologies. We do however advise using Kinetik® Power Cells exclusively throughout the vehicle for maximum voltage, performance and longevity of aftermarket electronics as well as the Power cells. This will minimize self discharging of the power storage devices in the vehicle while not in use also. Kinetik® Power Cells have a very low self discharge rate much lower than that of a standard ‘wet cell’ car battery. When different types of power storage devices (batteries or Power Cells) are used in parallel in an electrical system, current will have a tendency to flow between storage devices unnecessarily resulting in heat build up and loss of power where it is needed most. When Kinetik® Power Cells are used throughout the install, current will flow directly from the Power Cells to the load in a balanced manner minimizing ‘fighting’ between unlike storage devices. To cut down on flooded battery draining AGM type Power Cells  we recommend relay type isolators.

Professionally check your alternator and charge then load test the starting battery. When lights are dimming people have a tendency to add power storage devices instead of checking to see what the real problem may be. If and alternator or front battery is bad then adding more power will only temporarily solve the problem until the new Power Cell is dead too. The reason the lights stopped dimming when adding the Kinetik® Power Cell was because you ‘recharged’ the car with the new cell instead of replacing the alternator or battery that was bad. Kinetik® Power Cells rest at 13 volts after being fully charged and allowed to cool. Most car batteries rest between 12.6 and 12.8 volts. If your voltage is lower than this on a vehicle after being allowed to cool down with the motor off, check your battery and alternator immediately.


Adding multiple Kinetik® Power Cells to a vehicle will not add extra load on your alternator or lower you voltage in your car like adding ‘wet cell’ batteries will. Due to the low ESR and high voltage of Kinetik® Power Cells, your voltage will actually increase as long as the Kinetik® Power cells are properly maintained. Kinetik® Power Cells also charge more efficiently and quickly than a standard ‘wet cell’ battery reducing the stress on your alternator.


Wrong! Ohm’s law is not negotiable. Yes a highly regulated power supply can help stabilize output of an amplifier, but the power has to come from somewhere. If an amp is trying for 1000 watts output and your voltage is at 14 volts then you need 72 amps of current to provide this (14.4 volts x 69.4 amps = 1000 watts). If voltage drops to 10.5 volts while the amp is trying to do 1000 watts a regulated power supply will automatically demand 95.2 amps of current. If the electrical system was already taxed at 69 extra amps, then 95 amps is only compounding the original problem lowering the voltage even more and starting the downward spiral to fried electronics. No matter what type of amplifier you have, higher voltage is always better. Higher voltages reduce the required amount of current to provide the same wattage output and as a result your amplifier runs cooler. Remember…increased current results heat and heat kills amplifiers and other electronics. Woofers and full range speakers alike will always sound better at higher system voltages because it is much easier for the amplifier to maintain wattage and also damping factors which is what ‘holds’ the speaker in place keeping it from flopping around like a wet piece of cardboard.


Yes it will IF the alternator is the proper size and in good working order and the front or starting battery is in good condition. Follow all recommendations on wiring and Power Cell selection from earlier. If extra power is what is needed at the amplifier and a faulty electrical system is not the cause of the voltage problem a properly selected Power Cell will add enough power to run the aftermarket equipment. A Kinetik® HC600 has many times more stored energy than a 100 farad capacitor.

Another problem area when this is occurring is a lack of proper power flow from the alternator to the power cells due to an inferior circuit. All of the factory connections in this circuit should also be upgraded otherwise known as "THE BIG THREE". To perform this upgrade you will need to replace these connections:

• Alternator Positive to Power Cell and or front battery Positive 

• Alternator engine mount Negative to Chassis Negative 

• Front battery or Power Cell Negative to Chassis Negative

This will need to be done with a minimal of 4 AWG wire but it is recommended to use 0 AWG for all main power connections with the termination points either crimped or soldered for a secure and complete connection. Failure to upgrade these connections can limit the power current flow to your power cells resulting in inferior power distribution to your electrical system in times of heavy power consumption.


Kinetik® Power Cells can be charged in a properly functioning vehicle charging system or with any high quality 12 volt battery charger. For best results and maximum power output and lifecycle for outboard charging, use a Kinetik® power supply or maintainer to charge and maintain your Power Cell. If you are charging with an automotive type charger always use chargers that are “voltage regulated, two stage, Automatic or microprocessor controlled”. Do not use chargers that only have amp settings such as 2, 5 or 10 amp settings that do not regulate voltage. These chargers increase in voltage as the battery or Power Cell charges leading to an over voltage situation that will ruin the cell. This is true for any 12 volt battery or Power Cell. The proper charging range for Kinetik® Power Cells is between 13.5 and 14.4 volts. Any quality battery charger will stay in this range. To “bulk” charge or quick charge your Power Cell for one to three hours use voltages between 14 and 14.4 volts. To saturate (fully charge) or maintain your Power Cell for extended periods of times up to months at a time, use a float voltage between 13.5 and 13.8 volts. Kinetik® power supplies and maintainers automatically switch from bulk to float charge as needed during the charging process to optimize the performance, lifecycle and charging time of your Power Cell.


kinetik® ap series

No, but performance increases after five or six cycles.

Kinetik® gives a 1 year warranty from date of purchase against manufacturer defects.

Yes, a carbon pile load tester should be used at 3 x Capacity in Amp Hours. Therefore, you can test a 7Ah(amp hour) battery by putting a 21 Ampere load on it for ten seconds and the battery voltage should stabilize and be greater than 9 volts. You can also use a Midtronics tester to test the battery.

Yes, but Kinetik® recommends charging the battery for 24 hours before use.

These batteries have a maximum charging current of .1C(C is the amp hour rating), or .1 x Capacity (amp hours) in all cases. For example a 10 amp hour battery would have a maximum charging current of 1 amp. Our AP1000 Charger Maintainer would work.

No, we recommend an AP battery to be operated in the upright position.

Yes, but doing so voids the warranty. Race teams do not seem to mind, and we are sponsoring several different types of race cars that are using two batteries in parallel.


Yes, these are plug and play for over 95% of the 12V motorcycles on the market, and they usually work better on old bikes because there is no parasitic drain. The maximum recommended charge voltage is 14.7V, which almost all bikes comply with.


Yes, heat is bad for ALL battery chemistries. The battery will still work, but it can shorten the life. It is recommended to operate at 130 degrees Fahrenheit or below.

Kinetik® AP Series batteries are designed for all mass produced motorcycles and may not be suited for a custom bike or one with a very high compression engine. They may not work well in a motorcycle with a large drain security system on the bike.

You can use a standard three stage charger or maintainer with no overcharge problems.

No, these batteries are not designed for cyclic applications but for starting an internal combustion engine or ICE.

Kinetik® recommends recharging the battery every three months at room temperature and more often if the temperature is above 80 degrees F.

Note: if your motorcycle has an alarm and/or a security system you will need to charge the battery more often than three months at room temperature.


kinetik® ap series phantom LFP batteries

Sealed Lead-Acid batteries can be taken to any retailer that sells Sealed Lead-Acid.  This also applies to Alkaline.  Please visit www.earth911.com for a location near you.  

No, but performance increases after five or six cycles.

Kinetik® gives a 1 year warranty from date of purchase against manufacturer defects.


Yes, a carbon pile load tester should be used at 4 x Capacity in amp hours. Therefore, you can test a 7Ah(amp hour) battery by putting a 28Ampere load on it for ten seconds and the battery voltage should stabilize and be greater than 9 volts. You can also use a Midtronics tester to test the battery.

Yes unless it is case four which needs to have a series bar connected.

The LFP batteries have a maximum charging current of 10 amperes for cases 1 and 2 and 24 amps for cases 3 and 4.

The Kinetik® Phantom LFP batteries can be mounted on their side whereas a conventional battery can only be mounted in an upright position.


Yes, but doing so voids the warranty. Race teams do not seem to mind, and we are sponsoring several different types of race cars that are using two batteries in parallel.

Yes, these are plug and play for over 95% of the 12V motorcycles on the market, and they usually work better on old bikes because there is no parasitic drain. The maximum recommended charge voltage is 14.6V, which almost all bikes comply with. Although I have seen with some older bikes that don’t charge the battery correctly.

Yes, heat is bad for ALL battery chemistries. The battery will still work, but it can shorten the life. It is recommended to operate at 130 degrees Fahrenheit or below.

No, it would be classified as Hazmat to ship the battery with it installed. It’s best to show the end user how to install it prior to installation.


You can use a standard three stage charger or maintainer with no overcharge problems.

The same manner as any other lithium battery, through an approved recycling agent. In some cases it can be disposed of after discharging in normal trash (there are no heavy metals or anything toxic) but it’s best to check with your local municipality first.

If the CCA is adequate to start the boat, then yes. It would not be recommended to use these as a trolling motor battery, however.

No, these are not designed for cyclic applications such as wheelchairs, electric scooters or trolling motors.

Unlike lead acid, it should work 95% or greater until the end of life, where it will drop off completely.


No, provided the charger is not over the recommended maximum amperage and stays under the 14.6V threshold.

They are made to fit perfectly to raise height, increase width, or increase length and designed to be dummy proof.

80% DOD 

Since voltage is only slightly higher, current is not increased that much. However, starting time is reduced 30%+, the starter actually remains cooler than with a lead acid battery.

Kinetik® AP Series batteries are designed for all mass produced motorcycles and for starting internal combustion engines or ICE only. They will not work well on any bike with a large drain security system.


battery performance

New NiCd and NiMH batteries come in a discharged condition and must be fully charged before use. It is recommended that you fully charge and discharge your new battery two to four times to allow it to reach its maximum rated capacity.  Small sealed lead-acid batteries do not come discharged, but must be fully recharged before being put to use.

Keep your battery healthy by fully charging and then fully discharging it at least once every two to three weeks. Exceptions to the rule are Li-Ion batteries and Sealed Lead-Acid batteries which do not suffer from the memory effect. 

It's a good idea to clean dirty battery contacts with a cotton swab and alcohol. This helps maintain a good connection between the battery and your portable device. 

 If you don't plan on using the battery for a month or more, we recommend storing it in a clean, dry, cool place away from heat and metal objects. NiCd, NiMH and Li-Ion batteries will self-discharge during storage; remember to break them in before use. Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) batteries must be kept at full charge during storage. This is usually achieved by using special trickle chargers. If you do not have a trickle charger, do not attempt to store SLA batteries for more than three months.